Marty's BBQ / Wilson, NC

Meeting Dad and "The Boys" for dinner means eating early. And by early, then mean 4:30pm. And by 4:30pm, I mean two hours earlier than I usually eat. But considering it's barbecue and it's made by the son of the legendary "Bill" as in Bill's Barbecue, then I am all in... time of day be damned.

If 20+ cars lined up around the block to the drive-thru at 4:30 in the afternoon on a Wednesday isn't enough of a clue that Marty's BBQ is doing something right, then I don't know what else would.

I've been to Marty's a couple of times and I have been impressed by the product they're pushing out from a boarded-up former convenience store near Wilson's Fike High School. They really do need more space, a bigger parking lot, and traffic control (did I mention the endless stream of vehicles rolling in and overflow parking next door?).

Lawrence Ellis named his restaurant for his late brother, Marty and there's a whole backstory on all he's gone through after the passing of his famous father and the ordeal with his step-mom and the original Bill Ellis' Barbecue.

My sandwich this trip was awesome. And considering I had just eaten a pair of sandwiches from Bum's and Skylight Inn just a few hours earlier, this was a feat worth mentioning. Better than Bum's and wee bit less tasty than Skylight, this Marty's sandwich holds its own in the pantheon of Down East barbecue. I'd also rank it higher than the original Wilson Parker's. I will have to do a side-by-side tasting of Marty's vs Parker's to see whose Wilson 'cue reigns supreme.

I'm not sure if they cook with any smoke at Marty's. A quick questioning of the manager on a previous visit was met with a lesson on the differences between Eastern NC and Lexington style cooking processes and how "most folks down this way don't much like smoke." He never mentioned smoke being directly introduced to their shoulders, but the rest of the flavor more than makes up for a lack of smokiness.

The meat was moist and tender with a fine traditional Eastern chop and just enough stringiness to keep it from being mushy at all. The slaw is subtle and complimentary of the restrained heat. Both work well together. The traditional, properly-sized hamburger bun was warm and soft. Consistency of bread can make a big difference in the overall enjoyment of a barbecue sandwich. Too many times the bun is straight from packaging and its stiffness can be off-putting overall.

I highly recommend stopping in at Marty's. But be prepared for an overstuffed parking lot, a drive-thru line wrapped twice around the building, and a traffic jam all day long. 8.25/10

Marty's BBQ

2643 Ward Blvd

Wilson, NC 27893